Sumba Indonesia

Introducing Sumba

The dry, undulating island of Sumba has the richest tribal culture in Nusa Tenggara, centred on a religious tradition called marapu. It’s one of the poorest but most fascinating islands to visit, with a decidedly off-the-beaten-track appeal courtesy of its thatched clan houses, colossal carved megalith tombs, outstanding hand-spun ikat and bloody sacrificial funerals.

Physically it looks quite different from the volcanic islands to the north, its country­side characterised by low limestone hills and fields of maize and cassava. Sumba’s extensive grasslands made it one of Indonesia’s leading horse-breeding islands. Horses are still used as transport in more rugged regions; they are a symbol of wealth and status and have traditionally been used as part of the bride-price.

Sumba’s traditions remain particularly strong in its wetter, more fertile and more remote western half, which is home to about two-thirds of the island’s 540, 000 people. Though most islanders are now officially Protestant, marapu traditions and old conflicts are recalled every year at western Sumba’s terrific, often-violent Pasola festivals, which involve ritual battles between teams of mounted horse riders.

These battles hint at deep-rooted tribal tensions, which periodically erupt between rival princedoms. As recently as 1998 around 3000 tribesmen clashed in Waikabubak, a battle that claimed 26 lives according to official figures (though many locals put the true number at over 100).

While some Bahasa Indonesia is spoken everywhere, Sumba has six main languages. Few travellers make it here, but it’s a deeply rewarding place to explore and has fairly good transport connections with the rest of the region.

Place in Sumba :
waikabubak

Introducing Waikabubak

A juxtaposition of thatched clan houses and a typical high street of concrete stores, administrative buildings and houses bristling with satellite dishes, Waikabubak is an odd but fascinating place. At about 600m above sea level, it’s a little cooler than the east and a good base for exploring the traditional villages of western Sumba.

Though it seems an extremely tranquil place today, serious inter-tribal rioting occurred here in 1998.

transportation
Land
Bus

The terminal in Waikabubak is central. Five daily buses run to Waingapu (28, 000Rp, four hours) and throughout the day to Waitabula (4000Rp, one hour). There are frequent bemos to Anakalang, Wanokaka and Lamboya, and less frequent and less certain minibuses and trucks to other villages. To Kodi district, take a bus to Waitabula and catch a truck or bemo from there.
Air

The Merpati agent (21051; Jl Ahmad Yani 11) is above a shop. The airline has two flights weekly from Tambulaka airport (42km northwest of Waikabubak) to Kupang and one to Denpasar. There’s also the odd connection to Waingapu for those in a rush.

Transnusa (21245; Hotel Aloha, Jl Sudirman 26) Operates one weekly flight to Kupang and one to Denpasar.

Departure tax is 6000Rp.