Toba gets touted as Sumatra’s prettiest volcanic lake, a claim that detracts from its real appeal: the Batak people. Sure there is a backdrop of mountains and a cool, clear lake, but Toba’s relaxed atmosphere remains intact even when the day is hazy or the shorefront overgrown with weeds. And the Batak culture has modernised with grace despite tinkering from missionaries and tourists.
A lot has changed in Toba since its heyday, when Bataks and backpackers found that their common interests of having a good time made a nice little cottage industry. The spring break–style partiers now howl at the moon in Thailand instead of Toba. On weekends money from Medan and Aceh comes to call and a few travellers still pop in with great expectations. But the numbers aren’t enough to hide the obvious: tourism in Toba is almost dead.
This is all the more reason to come, not out of some sort of travelling philanthropy, but because the beaten trail is now off the beaten track. Nice hotel rooms go for a song, the outgoing Batak are genuinely glad to see you and the crowds that make travelling feel like child’s play are being babysat somewhere else.
‘Horas’ is the traditional Batak greeting and it’s delivered with great gusto, as are a few glasses of jungle juice (most Toba Batak are Christians) to warm up the pipes for the music-loving Batak.
Getting there & away
Contents
* Land
* Boat
Land
Bus
See Parapat, the mainland transit point, for information on bus travel to/from Danau Toba.
On Samosir, Pangururan has a daily buses to Berastagi (30, 000Rp) via Sidikalang, which is also a transfer point to Kutacane and Tapaktuan (on the west coast).
Boat
Ferries between Parapat and Tuk Tuk (7000Rp) operate about every two hours from 9.30am to 7.30pm. Ferries stop at Bagus Bay; other stops are by request. The first and last ferries from Samosir leave at about 8.30am and 4.30pm; check exact times with your hotel. When leaving for Parapat, stand on your hotel jetty and wave a ferry down.
Five ferries a day shuttle vehicles and people between Ajibata, just south of Parapat, and Tomok. There are five departures per day between 8.30am and 8.30pm. The passenger fare is 3000Rp. Cars cost 150, 000Rp, and places can be booked in advance at the Ajibata office (41194) or Tomok office (41157).
Getting around
Local buses serve the whole of Samosir except Tanjung Tuk Tuk. A helpful service is the regular minibuses between Tomok and Ambarita (2000Rp), continuing to Simanindo (3000Rp) and Pangururan (10, 00Rp). The road between the neck of the peninsula is a good spot to flag down these minibuses. Services dry up after 3pm.
You can rent motorcycles in Tuk Tuk for 70, 000Rp a day. Bicycle hire costs from 25, 000Rp a day.
Monday, March 16, 2009
Thursday, March 5, 2009
Bali indonesia
Introducing Bali
Bali may be small in size – you can drive around the entire coast in one long day – but its prominence as a destination is huge, and rightfully so. Ask travellers what Bali means to them and you’ll get as many answers as there are flowers on a frangipani tree. Virescent rice terraces, pulse-pounding surf, enchanting temple ceremonies, mesmerising dance performances and ribbons of beaches are just some of the images people cherish.
Small obviously doesn’t mean limited. The manic whirl of Kuta segues into the luxury of Seminyak. The artistic swirl of Ubud is a counterpoint to misty treks amid the volcanoes. Mellow beach towns like Amed, Lovina and Pemuteran can be found right round the coast and just offshore is the laid-back idyll of Nusa Lembongan.
As you stumble upon the exquisite little offerings left all over the island that materialise as if by magic, you’ll see that the tiny tapestry of colours and textures is a metaphor for Bali itself.
And those are just some of the more obvious qualities. A visit to Bali means that you are in the most visitor-friendly island of Indonesia. There are pleasures of the body, whether a massage on the beach or a hedonistic interlude in a sybaritic spa. Shopping that will put ‘extra bag’ at the top of your list. Food and drink ranging from the freshest local cuisine bursting with the flavours of the markets to food from around the globe, often prepared by chefs and served in restaurants that are world class. From a cold Bintang at sunset to an epic night clubbing in Kuta, your social whirl is limited only by your own fortitude.
place in bali :
Kuta
Kuta is Bali-on-a-budget, a raucous, infamous holiday enclave dedicated to fun and sun. A bustling network of narrow lanes lined with bars, losmen (basic accommodation), and stalls piled high with fake surfwear, dodgy DVDs and lurid football shirts, Kuta is all about bacchanalian nights and rampant commerce. Prepare yourself for plenty of attention from the shopkeepers and armies of hawkers that comb the streets here.
Yet a few steps away, Kuta’s raison d’être remains as wonderful as ever, as another set of perfect rollers washes over its magnificent golden sands. And while subtlety is not Kuta’s strength, the resort retains a slice of Balinese charm – incense wafts down the gang and offerings of flower petals are laid out each morning to placate the Hindu gods.
And if you’ve had your fill of Kuta’s frenetic energy, consider shifting just up the coast to the less manic surrounds of Legian or stylish Seminyak with its designer bars and legendary clubbing scene. Both are continuations of the same strip that creeps up the coastline; the further north you get from central Kuta, the less built-up and more exclusive the area becomes. But even in the heart of Seminyak there are a few budget hotels, and some terrific, authentic warung.
Following the bombs of 2002 and 2005, the area is not quite as busy as it used to be, but the locals remain upbeat, and stylish new places are emerging. So if you’ve spent weeks hiking the jungle trails of Kalimantan or thirsting for a bar in deepest Papua, Kuta could be ideal for a few nights R and R, for this is where Indonesia slips on its boldest board shorts and really lets its hair down.
transportation :
Land
Bus & bemo
Public bemo travel regularly between Kuta and the Tegal terminal in Denpasar (6000Rp, 30 minutes). The main bemo stop in Kuta is situated on Jl Raya Kuta, just east of Bemo Corner. Bemo head south from here to Jimbaran and Ulu Watu, but for anywhere else in Bali you’ll have to go via Denpasar.
For bus tickets to Java, Lombok and Sumbawa it’s most convenient to book via a travel agency; there are dozens in Kuta and Legian. Make sure the transfer to Ubung terminal in Denpasar (the bus departure point) is included.
Tourist shuttle buses travel between the Kuta area and all points of interest in Bali and Lombok. Perama (751551; www.peramatour.com; Jl Legian 39) is the best-known operator with daily services. Sample prices from Kuta are Ubud (30,000Rp, one hour), Lovina (100,000Rp, 3¼ hours), Padangbai (40,000Rp, 1¾ hours) and the Gilis (240, 000Rp, nine hours).
Car & motorcycle
Car- and motorcycle-hire places offer some of the most competitive prices in the world. To charter a vehicle, just walk up Jl Legian and listen for the offers of ‘Transport? Transport?’ Expect to pay 110, 000Rp per day for a Suzuki Jimny, or 30,000Rp for a 90cc scooter.
Boat
Pelni ferries link nearby Pelabuhan Benoa with destinations throughout Indonesia.
Air
Planes from Ngurah Rai airport, located near Kuta, serve destinations across Indonesia and the world.
Tana Toraja indonesia
Introducing Tana Toraja
Tana Toraja is quite simply unique. A cultural island, hemmed in by mountains on all sides, the Toraja prove there is life after death with their elaborate ceremonies. Take the beauty of Bali, the houses of the Bataks in Sumatra and the megalithic cultures of Sumba and you’re still not even close. Cave graves, hanging graves, tau tau (life-sized wooden effigies) of the dead and buffalo carnage every summer; it’s macabre but mesmerising. This is a world unto itself.
Tana Toraja is undoubtedly the most popular destination in Sulawesi. It’s a vast, pretty and mostly unspoilt area of traditional villages, unique architecture and fascinating cultures. The funeral season is usually during July and August, when Toraja working throughout Indonesia return home for celebrations, tourists come in numbers and Rantepao hotel prices peak. However, in recent years, visitor numbers have been pretty low, so it doesn’t hurt to time a visit with the funeral season to see the elaborate ceremonies in full swing.
place in tana toraja :
Rantepao
Introducing Rantepao
Rantepao is the most popular base for exploring the stunning countryside around Tana Toraja. It is in striking distance of most of the major sites and has a good range of accommodation and restaurants. It is the largest town and commercial centre of Tana Toraja and a far better option than the provincial capital of Makale. Rantepao has cool evenings and rain throughout the year – even in the dry season.
Transportation :
Land
Bus & bemo
Most long-distance buses leave from bus company offices along, or just off, Jl Andi Mappanyukki. The most comfortable buses (with slightly higher prices to match) are Litha, Batutumonga and Alam Indah. Try to book the ticket a day or so in advance.
There are plenty of buses heading north to Pendolo (70, 000Rp, eight hours), Tentena (90, 000Rp, 12 hours), Poso (110, 000Rp, 13 hours) and Palu (135, 000Rp, 20 hours). Even more buses head south to Pare Pare (25, 000Rp, five hours). To Terminal Panaikang in Makassar (45, 000 to 75, 000Rp, eight hours), buses often run at night, and prices vary according to speed and the level of comfort and space. Various companies also have services to Mamuju via Polewali, from where there are connections to Mamasa. The only direct bus between Tana Toraja and Mamasa leaves from Makale.
From Terminal Bolu, 2km north of Rantepao, there are regular vehicles to Palopo. From outside Rachmat Restoran, Kijangs leave every minute to Makale (4000Rp, 20 minutes). See Around Tana Toraja for more details about transport between Rantepao and other places in Tana Toraja. Plenty of bemos travel between Rantepao and Terminal Bolu.
Air
Flying – especially into Tana Toraja – provides a dramatic look at the landscape and architecture of traditional villages. The only carrier, DAS, flies from Makassar at 10.30am on Tuesday and Friday for 250, 000Rp, returning around 11.40am. However, most locals consider this an unreliable service. Tickets can be booked through Toraja Permai (21785; Jl Andi Mappanyukki 10) or at hotels around town.
Tana Toraja is quite simply unique. A cultural island, hemmed in by mountains on all sides, the Toraja prove there is life after death with their elaborate ceremonies. Take the beauty of Bali, the houses of the Bataks in Sumatra and the megalithic cultures of Sumba and you’re still not even close. Cave graves, hanging graves, tau tau (life-sized wooden effigies) of the dead and buffalo carnage every summer; it’s macabre but mesmerising. This is a world unto itself.
Tana Toraja is undoubtedly the most popular destination in Sulawesi. It’s a vast, pretty and mostly unspoilt area of traditional villages, unique architecture and fascinating cultures. The funeral season is usually during July and August, when Toraja working throughout Indonesia return home for celebrations, tourists come in numbers and Rantepao hotel prices peak. However, in recent years, visitor numbers have been pretty low, so it doesn’t hurt to time a visit with the funeral season to see the elaborate ceremonies in full swing.
place in tana toraja :
Rantepao
Introducing Rantepao
Rantepao is the most popular base for exploring the stunning countryside around Tana Toraja. It is in striking distance of most of the major sites and has a good range of accommodation and restaurants. It is the largest town and commercial centre of Tana Toraja and a far better option than the provincial capital of Makale. Rantepao has cool evenings and rain throughout the year – even in the dry season.
Transportation :
Land
Bus & bemo
Most long-distance buses leave from bus company offices along, or just off, Jl Andi Mappanyukki. The most comfortable buses (with slightly higher prices to match) are Litha, Batutumonga and Alam Indah. Try to book the ticket a day or so in advance.
There are plenty of buses heading north to Pendolo (70, 000Rp, eight hours), Tentena (90, 000Rp, 12 hours), Poso (110, 000Rp, 13 hours) and Palu (135, 000Rp, 20 hours). Even more buses head south to Pare Pare (25, 000Rp, five hours). To Terminal Panaikang in Makassar (45, 000 to 75, 000Rp, eight hours), buses often run at night, and prices vary according to speed and the level of comfort and space. Various companies also have services to Mamuju via Polewali, from where there are connections to Mamasa. The only direct bus between Tana Toraja and Mamasa leaves from Makale.
From Terminal Bolu, 2km north of Rantepao, there are regular vehicles to Palopo. From outside Rachmat Restoran, Kijangs leave every minute to Makale (4000Rp, 20 minutes). See Around Tana Toraja for more details about transport between Rantepao and other places in Tana Toraja. Plenty of bemos travel between Rantepao and Terminal Bolu.
Air
Flying – especially into Tana Toraja – provides a dramatic look at the landscape and architecture of traditional villages. The only carrier, DAS, flies from Makassar at 10.30am on Tuesday and Friday for 250, 000Rp, returning around 11.40am. However, most locals consider this an unreliable service. Tickets can be booked through Toraja Permai (21785; Jl Andi Mappanyukki 10) or at hotels around town.
Sumba Indonesia
Introducing Sumba
The dry, undulating island of Sumba has the richest tribal culture in Nusa Tenggara, centred on a religious tradition called marapu. It’s one of the poorest but most fascinating islands to visit, with a decidedly off-the-beaten-track appeal courtesy of its thatched clan houses, colossal carved megalith tombs, outstanding hand-spun ikat and bloody sacrificial funerals.
Physically it looks quite different from the volcanic islands to the north, its countryside characterised by low limestone hills and fields of maize and cassava. Sumba’s extensive grasslands made it one of Indonesia’s leading horse-breeding islands. Horses are still used as transport in more rugged regions; they are a symbol of wealth and status and have traditionally been used as part of the bride-price.
Sumba’s traditions remain particularly strong in its wetter, more fertile and more remote western half, which is home to about two-thirds of the island’s 540, 000 people. Though most islanders are now officially Protestant, marapu traditions and old conflicts are recalled every year at western Sumba’s terrific, often-violent Pasola festivals, which involve ritual battles between teams of mounted horse riders.
These battles hint at deep-rooted tribal tensions, which periodically erupt between rival princedoms. As recently as 1998 around 3000 tribesmen clashed in Waikabubak, a battle that claimed 26 lives according to official figures (though many locals put the true number at over 100).
While some Bahasa Indonesia is spoken everywhere, Sumba has six main languages. Few travellers make it here, but it’s a deeply rewarding place to explore and has fairly good transport connections with the rest of the region.
Place in Sumba :
waikabubak
Introducing Waikabubak
A juxtaposition of thatched clan houses and a typical high street of concrete stores, administrative buildings and houses bristling with satellite dishes, Waikabubak is an odd but fascinating place. At about 600m above sea level, it’s a little cooler than the east and a good base for exploring the traditional villages of western Sumba.
Though it seems an extremely tranquil place today, serious inter-tribal rioting occurred here in 1998.
transportation
Land
Bus
The terminal in Waikabubak is central. Five daily buses run to Waingapu (28, 000Rp, four hours) and throughout the day to Waitabula (4000Rp, one hour). There are frequent bemos to Anakalang, Wanokaka and Lamboya, and less frequent and less certain minibuses and trucks to other villages. To Kodi district, take a bus to Waitabula and catch a truck or bemo from there.
Air
The Merpati agent (21051; Jl Ahmad Yani 11) is above a shop. The airline has two flights weekly from Tambulaka airport (42km northwest of Waikabubak) to Kupang and one to Denpasar. There’s also the odd connection to Waingapu for those in a rush.
Transnusa (21245; Hotel Aloha, Jl Sudirman 26) Operates one weekly flight to Kupang and one to Denpasar.
Departure tax is 6000Rp.
The dry, undulating island of Sumba has the richest tribal culture in Nusa Tenggara, centred on a religious tradition called marapu. It’s one of the poorest but most fascinating islands to visit, with a decidedly off-the-beaten-track appeal courtesy of its thatched clan houses, colossal carved megalith tombs, outstanding hand-spun ikat and bloody sacrificial funerals.
Physically it looks quite different from the volcanic islands to the north, its countryside characterised by low limestone hills and fields of maize and cassava. Sumba’s extensive grasslands made it one of Indonesia’s leading horse-breeding islands. Horses are still used as transport in more rugged regions; they are a symbol of wealth and status and have traditionally been used as part of the bride-price.
Sumba’s traditions remain particularly strong in its wetter, more fertile and more remote western half, which is home to about two-thirds of the island’s 540, 000 people. Though most islanders are now officially Protestant, marapu traditions and old conflicts are recalled every year at western Sumba’s terrific, often-violent Pasola festivals, which involve ritual battles between teams of mounted horse riders.
These battles hint at deep-rooted tribal tensions, which periodically erupt between rival princedoms. As recently as 1998 around 3000 tribesmen clashed in Waikabubak, a battle that claimed 26 lives according to official figures (though many locals put the true number at over 100).
While some Bahasa Indonesia is spoken everywhere, Sumba has six main languages. Few travellers make it here, but it’s a deeply rewarding place to explore and has fairly good transport connections with the rest of the region.
Place in Sumba :
waikabubak
Introducing Waikabubak
A juxtaposition of thatched clan houses and a typical high street of concrete stores, administrative buildings and houses bristling with satellite dishes, Waikabubak is an odd but fascinating place. At about 600m above sea level, it’s a little cooler than the east and a good base for exploring the traditional villages of western Sumba.
Though it seems an extremely tranquil place today, serious inter-tribal rioting occurred here in 1998.
transportation
Land
Bus
The terminal in Waikabubak is central. Five daily buses run to Waingapu (28, 000Rp, four hours) and throughout the day to Waitabula (4000Rp, one hour). There are frequent bemos to Anakalang, Wanokaka and Lamboya, and less frequent and less certain minibuses and trucks to other villages. To Kodi district, take a bus to Waitabula and catch a truck or bemo from there.
Air
The Merpati agent (21051; Jl Ahmad Yani 11) is above a shop. The airline has two flights weekly from Tambulaka airport (42km northwest of Waikabubak) to Kupang and one to Denpasar. There’s also the odd connection to Waingapu for those in a rush.
Transnusa (21245; Hotel Aloha, Jl Sudirman 26) Operates one weekly flight to Kupang and one to Denpasar.
Departure tax is 6000Rp.
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